It would be months before the seamen would see land. Sea sick, smelly and full of scurvy, they would have literally kissed the earth when they touched the shores of the Cape. This was the midway point where the Atlantic and the Indian Ocean met before the traders and navigators set sail for the Spice Islands.

From somewhere out there, Vasco da Gama would have called out to say: Land Ahoy!
The cold Atlantic and the warm Indian Ocean meet at Cape Point

Oh! The Spice Islands. Will I ever tire myself of writing about it? If the land route from China to Europe was all about silk, the maritime route to Indonesia, Malaya, Ceylon and India was all about spices which the Dutch, the Portuguese and the English fought over for dominance.

Vasco Da Gama, the Portuguese explorer had just one mission (actually two): find the spice route which was dominated by the Arab traders (blame the Dark Ages and the church believing earth to be flat, the Europeans never sailed; also their food was rather bland); and the second one, to establish Christian diocese by conquering new land. The Portuguese Inquisition would be a terrible thing to write about so we’ll just focus on the spice trade instead.

A story about spice route to India with Cochin as the capital

Once the maritime route to India was established another set of explorers, the Dutch, who were at war with the Portuguese entered the spice trade themselves and later set up the Dutch East Company or the VOC (Verenigde Oost-indische Compagnie).

The pentagonal shape, which was also how the Cape of Good Hope Castle was built, came to be associated with VOC. The flag carried this symbol and I saw this also on the old paved roads in Cape Town.
Drone shot of the Castle of Good Hope; pic from the internet.

The VOC established the cape as a way-station for docking ships and brought Boers – Afrikaans word for farmers of Dutch, German and French Huguenot ancestry to cultivate the land for agriculture. The Boers then employed labour from Dutch colonies of Indonesia, India, Ceylon and Malaya to work on the farm.

All you see from above in a hot air balloon, are farms
The white roof structure you see are fruit orchards, primarily oranges that were grown by the Boers to cure …. Yep, scurvy, once again reinforcing the importance of the Cape as a mid-way point. Orange also a nod to the Dutch royalty who come from the House of Oranje.

Oceans hold stories and interlocked histories between Europeans, Arabs, Africans and Asians. It is no surprise the shores they touch become melting pot of cultures. This can be seen here in the Cape. The colours, foods, architecture, language, attire, music and just about everything is a magical mix.

Bo Kaap meaning “above cape” is a protected area in Cape Town that is primarily Muslim. The original occupants of this area were slaves and settlers who, once freed, and able to own their home, painted them in colours as an expression of freedom. As a protected area, any changes to colours of these homes now requires special approval.
The people of Bo Kaap have strongly influenced South Africa through their cuisine and culture called “Cape Malay” which has its origins in Indonesia and Malaysia as well as India and Ceylon. The food is primarily spice-based curries, rotis, roasts or kebabs and Biryani.

The midway point thrived and grew its own legislative system, post and communication, banks and insurance. Along the way, they even found gold (in Joburg) and diamond (in Kimberly).

Well, what meets the eye when you exit from Cape Town International airport? A wall to wall post about diamonds.
Penguins at Boulders Beach
Nelson Mandela at Cape Town City Hall is where he made his first public speech after his release from prison on 11 February 1990.

The Cape has made its mark in the history in many ways. Christian Barnard became the first surgeon to perform human-to-human heart transplant in 1967. The diamonds from its mines sanctify marriages around the world; wines from Stellenbosch and Franschhoek quench the thirst and make wedding feasts more delectable. It has exotic wildlife – whales in Hermanus and Penguins at Boulder Beach. And of course its performance at cricket and rugby is legendary.

It is no wonder just about everything is called “Hope”. Hope is really a halfway point.

2 thoughts on “The Cape – a midway point

  1. Anna says:

    The colours of Bo kaap are so beautiful! What gorgeous colours! The beaches of white sand and the blue sea remind me alot of our souther coastline here too. Very similar to me.

    • yololah says:

      Australia is beautiful, Anna. Something about the Southern Hemisphere. Great weather, delicious wines, even the crunch in the lettuce leaf is enviable. I can see many similarities too.

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